(written 6/26/08; posted by MOM)
One of the 3 goals of Peace Corps is to share American culture with your host country. Well, I am not sure if what I shared was a universal American culture, but it was certainly a part of my personal culture...Maybe we should start from the beginning, and you be the judge.
Today is Madagascar’s Independence Day. They celebrate in a similar style to our Independence Day but since Madagascar achieved independence more recently, in 1960, the Malagasy are more enthusiastic about it. There are people here who remember life under colonization still. They held a parade in town, with each school’s students marching behind a banner. They had a flag-raising ceremony, sang the national anthem, and the many local dignitaries gave speeches. Then the American and Malagasy Independence Day similarities took a hiatus. Because it was time for the singing competition.
Yes, there was a singing competition, and it was pretty serious, complete with tryouts and winners. In between the formal competitors, who sang Malagasy pop songs, there were other groups with more fun entries. These included school groups with songs and dance routines, some joke songs written just for this occasion, and me. You read that correctly. After much cajoling, I gave in to an on-the-spot request to sing something. I eventually convinced everyone that I did not know any Malagasy songs, and they said: “Sing an American song!” Well, alright, I am not one to pass up an opportunity to be a ridiculous spectacle, am I?
I decided a good representation of American classic rock was needed, so I went to an old faithful that I knew well: Lynyrd Skynyrd’s Sweet Home Alabama. So the music man put on a generic “rock and roll” beat on the synthesizer, which sounded like 1950’s era rock, and I took the mic in front of my soon-to-be adoring fans. But before I began, I told the crowd they had to help me: after each line in the chorus, they had to all sing “Bama bama bama who!” This was a direct nod to H. Tom, the London 8 ballers, and the Greater 523 S. St. Joe’s family. You know who you are. (I decided not to add the lines “they are so blue” and “here I come-a, Alabama” to keep it simple for an audience that spoke no English) And it worked, the crowd enjoyed my scratchy singing, and enthusiastically yelled their pert after every line in the chorus—by the end, after very line in the verse too. Now, I know what you are thinking: where is the video? Well, fear not, for I took a poor-quality, brief video with my digital camera. It is shaky, since I took it with my left hand and quickly before I finished, but it is proof that I led some Malagasy people in a heartfelt rendition of Sweet Home Alabama. This fall I plan to mail home a camera card to post photos online, and hopefully we can get the video up then too. It was a fun experience, even if now I will likely hear “Bama bama bama who!” yelled at me everywhere I go. But then, that is not such a bad thing, and it will be a nice reminder of home.
So that is my tale of Independence Day cultural exchange. Next year I will maybe learn and sing a Malagasy song, since I have to one-up myself on the embarrassment scales, right? I think so. The Malagasy celebrate in style, and I contributed a bit of southern rock. This proves that, even without Will Smith and Jeff Goldblum, Independence Day can be a fun-filled extravaganza.
--Random Madagascar fact—During World War II, Britain launched its first ever large-scale combined air, sea and land operation to capture the strategic Madagascar port Diego-Suarez from Vichy France. This was to prevent Japanese takeover, and to provide British mastery of the seas. This mastery would thwart one major plan of Nazi Germany. Since the late 1930’s, the Nazi’s planned to deport European Jews to Madagascar. The plan was to either make Madagascar a vast “reservation” for Jews, or to make it the site of the final solution’s atrocities since it is so remote. Until 1941, this plan was Nazi doctrine, when the continued superiority of the British Navy proved it impractical. Both these stories were excerpted from my Bradt Madagascar guidebook, which it turn, takes them from a cool sounding book: The Forgotten Invasion: The Story of Britain’s First Large-Scale Combined Operation, the Invasion of Madagascar, 1942, by John Grehan. Hope you liked this first Random Fact, I’ll try to include more in the future!
Thursday, July 31, 2008
Sunday, July 27, 2008
May You Have a Happy Birthday, Now and Your Whole Life Through (boom boom boom)
(written 6/25/08—posted by MOM)
Only a very select few will know the title to this entry, but it probably the greatest birthday song ever. The closest competitor I can think of comes from an episode of the Simpsons, in which animatronics robots at a Chuck E. Cheese-style restaurant (or Pip’s!) sing, “you’re the birthday, you’re the birthday, you’re the birthday boy OR girl!!”
Getting back to my point, I have been lucky enough to spend my birthdays in some pretty amazing places. In grade school, there were 2 times that school ended on my birthday or the day before, due to snow days (multiple snow days in Southern Connecticut?! This was before global warming...). A pretty great present, even for a nerdy kid like me. I turned 17 in Spain, in an awesome little town that put on a fireworks display and concert—not directly in my honor, but I pretended it was (the name escapes me; Alex, do you recall? It had an aqueduct I think). My 23rd birthday was in Los Angeles at CDBSD I: The Awakening (for the uninitiated, a college reunion...of sorts). Now for my 25th birthday I am in Madagascar! Really amazing. Let me recount the day and some recent tales for you.
I started the day by cooking some delicious banana pancakes (thus doing Jack Johnson proud), then proceeded on a lengthy trek over the hills and far away (paying homage to Led Zeppelin). Monday, June 23rd was the day of a teaching session in a nearby fokontany (village). Unfortunately, due to the constant rains, the road was more of a river, so a local friend and I hiked 5 hours through rice paddies and over giant hills. When walking through the open fields, it felt like a scene from pretty much any war movie (minus any sense of danger, of course). Then hiking along the hilltops, it felt like Lord of the Rings. Crossing the wet rice fields and surrounding areas, many times I had to make a Leap of Faith, much like the final challenge faced by Indiana Jones in the Last Crusade: I would step on to what I hoped, or believed, was solid ground, or where I thought there was a rock or plank of wood just beneath the murky water. Of course, this method is far from fool proof, and I managed to fall in to one river, covered up to my waist in muck. I was quite the hilarious sight. Quick side note: How was the new Indy movie: I am hoping by the time I return they have released a Special Edition that edits Sean Connery in to the film. Quitting acting to free Scotland from the British; doesn’t Sean know Bravehart Gibson already did that?!
So I spent my birthday in the fokontany, eating lots of rice, conversing with my new Malagasy friends, and being laughed at by children. I taught the farmers about natural fertilizers and compost, and we joked about my struggles with the Malagasy language (and they attempted to learn some English). I also had the special treat of honey, straight
from the comb! One of the farmers raises bees, so we sat around and enjoyed some very sweet honey. Maybe too sweet; after a spoonful I was left puckering and making a face like the rookie in the H. Tom-approved classes, Super Troopers, after his syrup chugging. So, a birthday unlike any other, fun and exhausting.
I returned home to prepare for my first real kibary (formal speech) tomorrow at the Madagascar Independence Day ceremony. I plan to write one more entry about the holiday before sending these entries home to be posted. A couple of last tidbits before I go to burn some trash (Bob Brooks—Paper everywhere!)
One more movie reference in this already reference-heavy entry: I thought of a good analogy for walking around the slippery roads here. It is like in the Return of the Jedi when the Imperial walkers, the ones that look like chickens and get beat by the cute fuzzy bears, stumble on the logs and their legs turn jellyish as they sway every which way. It can actually be fun, although I don’t think it is ever a pretty sight for those watching me.
A quick book recommendation: I recently read How Soccer Explains the World by Franklin Foer. A very interesting read about globalization and soccer, although it should be subtitled “why you should cheer for Barca.” People here like soccer, but the national team is not very good, and I don’t know of many Malagasy players playing in the top
European leagues, so this book has no real Madagascar connection. Just an insightful read.
I’ve had lots of good questions from friends’ letters, asking about what exotic animals I see, foods I eat, clothes people wear, and other such daily things. I will try to write about such cultural and environmental aspects here as well. Aside from honeycomb, I recently had a sweet root called fary. I am not too familiar with roots, like cassava, so I’m not sure how best to describe it, but you suck on the fibers and get a sweet sugary juice from it. Most fruits here are seasonal, and I hear the lychee season is particularly good, so I will keep you posted.
Only a very select few will know the title to this entry, but it probably the greatest birthday song ever. The closest competitor I can think of comes from an episode of the Simpsons, in which animatronics robots at a Chuck E. Cheese-style restaurant (or Pip’s!) sing, “you’re the birthday, you’re the birthday, you’re the birthday boy OR girl!!”
Getting back to my point, I have been lucky enough to spend my birthdays in some pretty amazing places. In grade school, there were 2 times that school ended on my birthday or the day before, due to snow days (multiple snow days in Southern Connecticut?! This was before global warming...). A pretty great present, even for a nerdy kid like me. I turned 17 in Spain, in an awesome little town that put on a fireworks display and concert—not directly in my honor, but I pretended it was (the name escapes me; Alex, do you recall? It had an aqueduct I think). My 23rd birthday was in Los Angeles at CDBSD I: The Awakening (for the uninitiated, a college reunion...of sorts). Now for my 25th birthday I am in Madagascar! Really amazing. Let me recount the day and some recent tales for you.
I started the day by cooking some delicious banana pancakes (thus doing Jack Johnson proud), then proceeded on a lengthy trek over the hills and far away (paying homage to Led Zeppelin). Monday, June 23rd was the day of a teaching session in a nearby fokontany (village). Unfortunately, due to the constant rains, the road was more of a river, so a local friend and I hiked 5 hours through rice paddies and over giant hills. When walking through the open fields, it felt like a scene from pretty much any war movie (minus any sense of danger, of course). Then hiking along the hilltops, it felt like Lord of the Rings. Crossing the wet rice fields and surrounding areas, many times I had to make a Leap of Faith, much like the final challenge faced by Indiana Jones in the Last Crusade: I would step on to what I hoped, or believed, was solid ground, or where I thought there was a rock or plank of wood just beneath the murky water. Of course, this method is far from fool proof, and I managed to fall in to one river, covered up to my waist in muck. I was quite the hilarious sight. Quick side note: How was the new Indy movie: I am hoping by the time I return they have released a Special Edition that edits Sean Connery in to the film. Quitting acting to free Scotland from the British; doesn’t Sean know Bravehart Gibson already did that?!
So I spent my birthday in the fokontany, eating lots of rice, conversing with my new Malagasy friends, and being laughed at by children. I taught the farmers about natural fertilizers and compost, and we joked about my struggles with the Malagasy language (and they attempted to learn some English). I also had the special treat of honey, straight
from the comb! One of the farmers raises bees, so we sat around and enjoyed some very sweet honey. Maybe too sweet; after a spoonful I was left puckering and making a face like the rookie in the H. Tom-approved classes, Super Troopers, after his syrup chugging. So, a birthday unlike any other, fun and exhausting.
I returned home to prepare for my first real kibary (formal speech) tomorrow at the Madagascar Independence Day ceremony. I plan to write one more entry about the holiday before sending these entries home to be posted. A couple of last tidbits before I go to burn some trash (Bob Brooks—Paper everywhere!)
One more movie reference in this already reference-heavy entry: I thought of a good analogy for walking around the slippery roads here. It is like in the Return of the Jedi when the Imperial walkers, the ones that look like chickens and get beat by the cute fuzzy bears, stumble on the logs and their legs turn jellyish as they sway every which way. It can actually be fun, although I don’t think it is ever a pretty sight for those watching me.
A quick book recommendation: I recently read How Soccer Explains the World by Franklin Foer. A very interesting read about globalization and soccer, although it should be subtitled “why you should cheer for Barca.” People here like soccer, but the national team is not very good, and I don’t know of many Malagasy players playing in the top
European leagues, so this book has no real Madagascar connection. Just an insightful read.
I’ve had lots of good questions from friends’ letters, asking about what exotic animals I see, foods I eat, clothes people wear, and other such daily things. I will try to write about such cultural and environmental aspects here as well. Aside from honeycomb, I recently had a sweet root called fary. I am not too familiar with roots, like cassava, so I’m not sure how best to describe it, but you suck on the fibers and get a sweet sugary juice from it. Most fruits here are seasonal, and I hear the lychee season is particularly good, so I will keep you posted.
Friday, July 25, 2008
If it Keeps on Rainin’, the Levee’s Gonna Break....
(written Thurs. 6/19/08; posted by MOM)
To be honest, I don’t even know where the closest levee is, so I don’t think it is in danger of breaking. But I wanted to stress (again....) that it rains here a lot, at least once a day. But after living in rainy havens like South Bend and London, I am pretty used to it. (Even DC could feel like those two dreary-weather places at times). And when the sun does come out, it is usually a beautiful sight.
One effect of the constant rains (note: this is actually Madagascar’s “dry season”) is that the road become slick. That is a huge understatement. The roads here are dirt or clay, and they become like muddy ice sheets in the rain. I tend to slip n’ slide (remember that game?) my way wherever I am going. This makes walking places especially interesting because you always have to go up and down steep hills around town. So far I have mostly lived up to the challenge, with only a few near-wipeouts to my name. When I do fall hard in a huge mud puddle (and I will, no doubt), I hope plenty of people are there to see. I wouldn’t want to waste the site of the big goofy American covered in much! Also, semi-related, I tend to wear my hiking boots in this type of weather (barefoot, hiking boots, sandals...all have proven ineffective for traction, but the boots are the warmest!) Well coming home from the fields or a long walk, I can finally understand somewhat the scourge of WWI infantrymen—trench foot.. I can see how wading through dank mud all day could leave feet damp and cold; of course, I have not had it, and am sure to get warm as much as possible. It is just funny sometimes to think that you share more in common with early 20th Century dwellers (or earlier) in the Peace Corps than 21st Century. But I wouldn’t be telling you about pit latrines and bucket showers without the modern technology like the internet!
When I was a student at ND, I took a service trip to Appalachia. My fellow classmates on the trip (unfortunately, almost all of whom I have lost touch with) atone point dubbed me “Huck Finn”, because whenever I had the chance I would wander off some cool trail of roll up my jeans and wade through water. While the nickname did not stick (to be fair, there were lots of nicknames created on this trip; I at one point also held the less-masculine one of “Princess,” a nickname that would pop up again in London with my roommate Tarv), everywhere I’ve been I think I could be described as a wanderer. Far from the banks of the St. Joe’s River and the forests of suburban Arlington, VA, my wanderings now take me in to the rainforest.
I know, you’re jealous, I am wandering distance from the rainforest, albeit a long and tiring wander. My recent excursion did not yield any new favorite animals (you’re safe for now, Tenrec) and in fact I did not see much wildlife, but I was able to enjoy the solitude and majesty of undisturbed natural rainforest. Well, mostly undisturbed—the area is plagued by tree-cutters and mineral-miners, most of the illegal nature, and I could see evidence of their work. But then that is why a Peace Corps Environment volunteer is here (ahem—me): to both educate about the destructive practices’ consequences and to improve other resources (tree production, farming techniques, and soil restoration) to alleviate pressure on the forest. So I guess it is a catch-22 of sorts; in order to be here and enjoy the beautiful nature, there had to be problems needing to be faced.
Funny how quickly I can digress in to the semi-philosophical, isn’t it? I will close on a more practical note, a request of sorts. If you are sending a letter, or want to but don’t feel comfortable in this digital age committing thoughts to paper (it is surprisingly liberating, I think you’ll find out) and want to include a picture or something, I would love it. Old articles of interest are always entertaining for me to read, and thinks like newspaper crosswords or puzzles are fin distractions )I am currently struggling through an old USA today puzzle page). But I was negligent in bringing photos of family and friends, so if you slipped one in with a letter I’d love to add it to my collection. My sister might be upset, as she is currently featured in all 4 of the photos above my desk and contributed 3 of the 5 picture post cards likewise adorning my room (the others from the McCloske7y and Orfield clans) Send something cool and get mentioned in a blog! Despite Karl Marx’ feelings, competition is a good thing.
Well there will be more to come soon, especially with Independence Day (Madagascar’s), my ¼ century day and 4 month anniversary of arrival of yours truly here on the Red Island all coming up in the next week. Stay tuned!
PS: in reference to the title, I am pretty sure I think already mentioned the Led Zeppelin connection to Mad’Car, but if not: we constructed a kabone (outhouse) at our training site for the community, and painted a large Peace Corps symbol on the side (as well as Malagasy for “welcome” and “enjoy” on the door, “tonga soa” and mazotoa” respectively). On a whim, one volunteer painted Led Zeppelin on the other side, and we all painted a lovely beach scene. It would be a fitting (reunion?) album cover—if you check Brittany’s blog I bet she has pictures!
To be honest, I don’t even know where the closest levee is, so I don’t think it is in danger of breaking. But I wanted to stress (again....) that it rains here a lot, at least once a day. But after living in rainy havens like South Bend and London, I am pretty used to it. (Even DC could feel like those two dreary-weather places at times). And when the sun does come out, it is usually a beautiful sight.
One effect of the constant rains (note: this is actually Madagascar’s “dry season”) is that the road become slick. That is a huge understatement. The roads here are dirt or clay, and they become like muddy ice sheets in the rain. I tend to slip n’ slide (remember that game?) my way wherever I am going. This makes walking places especially interesting because you always have to go up and down steep hills around town. So far I have mostly lived up to the challenge, with only a few near-wipeouts to my name. When I do fall hard in a huge mud puddle (and I will, no doubt), I hope plenty of people are there to see. I wouldn’t want to waste the site of the big goofy American covered in much! Also, semi-related, I tend to wear my hiking boots in this type of weather (barefoot, hiking boots, sandals...all have proven ineffective for traction, but the boots are the warmest!) Well coming home from the fields or a long walk, I can finally understand somewhat the scourge of WWI infantrymen—trench foot.. I can see how wading through dank mud all day could leave feet damp and cold; of course, I have not had it, and am sure to get warm as much as possible. It is just funny sometimes to think that you share more in common with early 20th Century dwellers (or earlier) in the Peace Corps than 21st Century. But I wouldn’t be telling you about pit latrines and bucket showers without the modern technology like the internet!
When I was a student at ND, I took a service trip to Appalachia. My fellow classmates on the trip (unfortunately, almost all of whom I have lost touch with) atone point dubbed me “Huck Finn”, because whenever I had the chance I would wander off some cool trail of roll up my jeans and wade through water. While the nickname did not stick (to be fair, there were lots of nicknames created on this trip; I at one point also held the less-masculine one of “Princess,” a nickname that would pop up again in London with my roommate Tarv), everywhere I’ve been I think I could be described as a wanderer. Far from the banks of the St. Joe’s River and the forests of suburban Arlington, VA, my wanderings now take me in to the rainforest.
I know, you’re jealous, I am wandering distance from the rainforest, albeit a long and tiring wander. My recent excursion did not yield any new favorite animals (you’re safe for now, Tenrec) and in fact I did not see much wildlife, but I was able to enjoy the solitude and majesty of undisturbed natural rainforest. Well, mostly undisturbed—the area is plagued by tree-cutters and mineral-miners, most of the illegal nature, and I could see evidence of their work. But then that is why a Peace Corps Environment volunteer is here (ahem—me): to both educate about the destructive practices’ consequences and to improve other resources (tree production, farming techniques, and soil restoration) to alleviate pressure on the forest. So I guess it is a catch-22 of sorts; in order to be here and enjoy the beautiful nature, there had to be problems needing to be faced.
Funny how quickly I can digress in to the semi-philosophical, isn’t it? I will close on a more practical note, a request of sorts. If you are sending a letter, or want to but don’t feel comfortable in this digital age committing thoughts to paper (it is surprisingly liberating, I think you’ll find out) and want to include a picture or something, I would love it. Old articles of interest are always entertaining for me to read, and thinks like newspaper crosswords or puzzles are fin distractions )I am currently struggling through an old USA today puzzle page). But I was negligent in bringing photos of family and friends, so if you slipped one in with a letter I’d love to add it to my collection. My sister might be upset, as she is currently featured in all 4 of the photos above my desk and contributed 3 of the 5 picture post cards likewise adorning my room (the others from the McCloske7y and Orfield clans) Send something cool and get mentioned in a blog! Despite Karl Marx’ feelings, competition is a good thing.
Well there will be more to come soon, especially with Independence Day (Madagascar’s), my ¼ century day and 4 month anniversary of arrival of yours truly here on the Red Island all coming up in the next week. Stay tuned!
PS: in reference to the title, I am pretty sure I think already mentioned the Led Zeppelin connection to Mad’Car, but if not: we constructed a kabone (outhouse) at our training site for the community, and painted a large Peace Corps symbol on the side (as well as Malagasy for “welcome” and “enjoy” on the door, “tonga soa” and mazotoa” respectively). On a whim, one volunteer painted Led Zeppelin on the other side, and we all painted a lovely beach scene. It would be a fitting (reunion?) album cover—if you check Brittany’s blog I bet she has pictures!
Wednesday, July 23, 2008
I Wanna Know Have You Ever Seen the Rain Comin’ Down on a Sunny Day?
(written Friday, June 13, 2008)
Yes, yes I have. As a matter of fact, it happens almost every day here! I know, that’s why they call them RAIN forests, right?
With this entry, I am trying out a new tactic. My Mom has graciously offered to post blogs that I mail to her, since computer access is often a limitation to my postings. The plus to this approach is I can write more frequently and longer, and she can post them when she can. The downside, of course, is that they will be posted at least a month late! But many of my postings were written and posted at different times already. And when I am near a computer and the internet, I cant still post brief “up-to-the-minute” entries here (or on our group blog). I think this system will work well. Maybe if you see a batch posted at once, just read the earliest, then the next day read the next, and the day after that another—it will feel like I’m updating daily!
As for life here, I encountered a new favorite Madagascar animal for the first time a few days ago—the Tenrec. This little insect-eater looks like a hedgehog; the one I saw was Black and Gold (DHHS colors!) and spiny. Cool little guy, and next time I hope to get pictures (pictures also forthcoming here, I promise—I plan to send a batch to the US soon-ish to be posted here). So, lemurs and geckos are cool, but the Tenrec (specifically the highland streaked Tenrec, I think, judging from my wildlife guide) is my current favorite. Of course, by next post, this could (very likely) have changed.
Also recently, while in my banking town, I saw this awesome Malagasy rock band called Ambondrona. Most bands here are real pop-ish and full of synthesizers, but these guys could have been an American rock band (bass, drums, bongos, a real good lead guitarist, rhythm guitar). They had a keyboard player, too, but if Van Halen can do it, then I won’t hold it against Ambondrona! I hope to find a CD to bring back with me.
I have lately been gorging on care package goodies such as pretzels, peanut butter, granola bars, and just as important old reading materials like the Economist and a NFL draft recap—special thanks to my Dad and also Cara and Nolan! And thanks to everyone who has written so far, I love getting mail when I get to my banking town, it is a rush. Hopefully my replies are getting to you in due time (less than a month?)
Yesterday, in my usual random fashion, I may have accidentally volunteered (or “been volunteered”) to participate in a singing competition. Madagascar’s independence day is June 26th, and there is a big Fety (party) to celebrate the end of French Colonial rule. Apparently part of this is a singing event—so I may be singing, in either English (hopefully) or Malagasy (yikes!) in front of my whole community. But then, making a fool of myself is something I have always excelled at, and it is pretty much a requirement in Peace Corps. More to come on this, as it develops.
As for work, the name of the game is flexibility. Planned meetings or projects with farmers often fall through at the last moment, so I tend to play things by ear. I promote eco-friendly farming practices like composting and green manure (growing crops to be used to enrich the soil), all with the intent of increasing yields while keeping inputs low. Sometimes a farmer will want to try a new crop, so I will help him experiment with a small piece of land—minimum risk if things go poorly, but the chance to grow more if the crop is successful. I have heard recently on BBC broadcasts that the food shortage worldwide has prompted renewed interest in Agricultural Development, so it will be interesting to see if that has any effects on practices here. I’m still just getting my feet wet, so I am sure more work-related details will follow soon (successes hopefully, failures likely—but, as a book I read during training, and mentioned to you here already, Two Ears of Corn, puts it: “It seems characteristic of human nature that people learn more effectively from mistakes—their own as well as others’—then from success” Deep, right?)
Well, as the candle burns low, I too should go. Thanks to my Mom for typing these, I hope this new system works well! And thanks to you all for reading, commenting, writing....everything!
PS: Alternative title for this post: “Well I woke UP this Morning, Rainbow Filled the Sky” But the beautiful rainbow I saw today was in the afternoon, and I wouldn’t want to mislead you!
PSS: the words for rain and nose are very similar (orana and orona, respectively), so I get a laugh by saying, “the rain is cold, my nose is cold, everything is cold!” Hmm, maybe it sounds better in Malagasy...or maybe, like back home, they are just humoring me!
Yes, yes I have. As a matter of fact, it happens almost every day here! I know, that’s why they call them RAIN forests, right?
With this entry, I am trying out a new tactic. My Mom has graciously offered to post blogs that I mail to her, since computer access is often a limitation to my postings. The plus to this approach is I can write more frequently and longer, and she can post them when she can. The downside, of course, is that they will be posted at least a month late! But many of my postings were written and posted at different times already. And when I am near a computer and the internet, I cant still post brief “up-to-the-minute” entries here (or on our group blog). I think this system will work well. Maybe if you see a batch posted at once, just read the earliest, then the next day read the next, and the day after that another—it will feel like I’m updating daily!
As for life here, I encountered a new favorite Madagascar animal for the first time a few days ago—the Tenrec. This little insect-eater looks like a hedgehog; the one I saw was Black and Gold (DHHS colors!) and spiny. Cool little guy, and next time I hope to get pictures (pictures also forthcoming here, I promise—I plan to send a batch to the US soon-ish to be posted here). So, lemurs and geckos are cool, but the Tenrec (specifically the highland streaked Tenrec, I think, judging from my wildlife guide) is my current favorite. Of course, by next post, this could (very likely) have changed.
Also recently, while in my banking town, I saw this awesome Malagasy rock band called Ambondrona. Most bands here are real pop-ish and full of synthesizers, but these guys could have been an American rock band (bass, drums, bongos, a real good lead guitarist, rhythm guitar). They had a keyboard player, too, but if Van Halen can do it, then I won’t hold it against Ambondrona! I hope to find a CD to bring back with me.
I have lately been gorging on care package goodies such as pretzels, peanut butter, granola bars, and just as important old reading materials like the Economist and a NFL draft recap—special thanks to my Dad and also Cara and Nolan! And thanks to everyone who has written so far, I love getting mail when I get to my banking town, it is a rush. Hopefully my replies are getting to you in due time (less than a month?)
Yesterday, in my usual random fashion, I may have accidentally volunteered (or “been volunteered”) to participate in a singing competition. Madagascar’s independence day is June 26th, and there is a big Fety (party) to celebrate the end of French Colonial rule. Apparently part of this is a singing event—so I may be singing, in either English (hopefully) or Malagasy (yikes!) in front of my whole community. But then, making a fool of myself is something I have always excelled at, and it is pretty much a requirement in Peace Corps. More to come on this, as it develops.
As for work, the name of the game is flexibility. Planned meetings or projects with farmers often fall through at the last moment, so I tend to play things by ear. I promote eco-friendly farming practices like composting and green manure (growing crops to be used to enrich the soil), all with the intent of increasing yields while keeping inputs low. Sometimes a farmer will want to try a new crop, so I will help him experiment with a small piece of land—minimum risk if things go poorly, but the chance to grow more if the crop is successful. I have heard recently on BBC broadcasts that the food shortage worldwide has prompted renewed interest in Agricultural Development, so it will be interesting to see if that has any effects on practices here. I’m still just getting my feet wet, so I am sure more work-related details will follow soon (successes hopefully, failures likely—but, as a book I read during training, and mentioned to you here already, Two Ears of Corn, puts it: “It seems characteristic of human nature that people learn more effectively from mistakes—their own as well as others’—then from success” Deep, right?)
Well, as the candle burns low, I too should go. Thanks to my Mom for typing these, I hope this new system works well! And thanks to you all for reading, commenting, writing....everything!
PS: Alternative title for this post: “Well I woke UP this Morning, Rainbow Filled the Sky” But the beautiful rainbow I saw today was in the afternoon, and I wouldn’t want to mislead you!
PSS: the words for rain and nose are very similar (orana and orona, respectively), so I get a laugh by saying, “the rain is cold, my nose is cold, everything is cold!” Hmm, maybe it sounds better in Malagasy...or maybe, like back home, they are just humoring me!
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