I recently was on a trip to Zahamena with the Park Agents (kind of like our Park Rangers) in my area. It was a great trip, as it stayed sunny (no rain for once!) and was warm, so we were able to see plenty of lemurs (brown lemurs and indri), birds, and other cool creatures. Being in a national park, but not on a guided tour, is always fun because you can just wander around by yourself. Seeing a family of brown lemurs searching for their dinner, by yourself, is pretty cool.
What was really memorable about this trip, however, was what we almost didn’t see. As we were about to take a break and sit down for some water and a snack, we heard a THUD. Thud. Thud. The park agents looked at each other, held up a finger to their mouth to tell me to keep it quiet (Mangina!), and led me quickly and quietly down the trail towards the noise. As we approached, the noise became louder and more distinct: mpangalatra kazo! That’s Malagasy for “Wood thieves,” as in, these were people stealing wood from a protected national forest. As we approached, two of the agents went ahead, while one stayed behind with me, presumably guarding against an escape. I think they just wanted to keep me out of sight until they knew what they were dealing with.
Search the internet for Madagascar and natural resources, and you will probably find a score of articles about the destruction of the eastern rainforests. As the political crisis continues, and donor funding for environmental protection programs have not yet returned, gangs of armed thieves have been cutting down valuable hardwoods (like rosewood) and exporting them to “the black market.” They have stormed through areas rich in biodiversity, destroying crucial habitats for all sorts of endemic species (flora and fauna). In particular, they have focused on the Masoala / Maroantsetra area, and apparently it is like the Wild West out there: no justice, just gangs and guns.
As the head park agent rounded a bend and came upon the group of thieves, a young girl looked up and softly said, “Olo!” (People!) At this, a group of 5 people, 2 of them girls, and none over the age of 18 (probably 10-15 ish), dashed down the hill and disappeared into the undergrowth. The agents gave chase, threatening that the Gendarmes (police) were after them, but once the young trespassers had escaped, the agents returned to survey the scene of the crime. What they saw was a couple of trees stripped of their bark. These trees, I was told, were valuable to local people because the bark was used to make an alcoholic beverage, Betsabetsa. Also at the scene of the crime were the thieves’ Antsybes (large machete like knives), 3 of them, and some clothes left behind. The clothes were later presented to locals in the nearby village, although no one recognized them, and the antsybes were kept to present to the Gendarmes later.
So, are these the types of criminals mentioned in so many hysterical articles about Madagascar’s endangered national parks? (note: hysterical, but justified and imperative!) I do not believe these were criminals in the same vein as those gangs of thugs. This was a small group of local people who were trying to harvest some of their natural resources to make a drink that was part of their heritage. While it is certainly not right, you have to wonder about what any punishment of their crime would really accomplish. (For more of my thoughts on this, see my previous post about illegal logging). This experience made me wonder about other crimes committed in Zahamena National Park. According to the park agents, these are the types of illegal activities they come across: debarking trees for Betsabetsa (often); stealing wood to build houses (often); fishing for Amalona [Eel] (often); taking honey (often); taking wood or plants to make local medicines (rarely); hunting lemurs for food (extremely rare); hunting birds for food (rarely). Now, I will not be to heavy handed and offer my own analysis; rather, I will leave you to make up your own mind and draw your own conclusions!
Random, unrelated notes:
-For a great write up of our Fety Riba Mena, the AIDS Awareness bike tour we finished a few weeks ago, check out my friend and SuperPCV Kanto’s blog post: Radagasikakara!
-Also, my mom forwarded this along, pretty entertaining: Peace Corps Movie Quotes
-PS- As I sat around a campfire in the rainforest, I zoned out for a little while as I stared at the flames. For a few minutes, I swore I was not in a Madagascar rainforest, but back at 1314 N. Stafford St., Arlington, VA. Made me think of a quote from the modern-day philosopher K. Chong: “Sometimes, it’s not where you are, but who you’re with, that counts.” This is not to say that I do not appreciate the awesomeness of my experience, just a shout-out to some Good Times and Great Oldies!
haha, Mangina
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